Nothing ruins a car faster than overheating. Just because you’re nice and cool in the passenger compartment doesn’t mean that your engine isn’t dying of heat prostration a few feet away. Be nice to your car; it’s the only thing that’s between you and hitching across Death Valley. Here are a few of our suggestions:

Suggestion A: Slow Down. Drive at 55, not 65. Take a look at the view!

Don’t forget–when you’re pulling a heavy load and traveling at high speed, you’re really imposing a tremendous demand on the engine–to say nothing of the fact that the trailer you’re hauling probably also has terrific wind resistance. Sure, you might be able to drive at 70 miles an hour, but you’re doing it at the expense of your engine. You might get to your destination a half-hour earlier, but you might just toast your engine on the way.

Suggestion B: Watch the Temperature Gauge.

If you do notice your temperature indicator starting to rise, turn on the heat in your car. Your car’s heater core will divert a little more of that heat away from the engine (remember–the heater core is another little radiator). Sure, the passenger compartment will get hot–maybe unbearable–but you might save the engine. This would be a good time to put your mother-in-law in the front seat. (You can tell her, “Elsie! Great news! You just got an upgrade to first class!”) Seriously, overheating can ruin an engine. So, if the temperature gauge is running hotter than it normally does, take these precautions, slow down and get some help at the next opportunity. If the engine is actually overheating–that is, the needle is near or in the red zone, or the “hot” light is on–stop driving. It may seem inconvenient, but you will almost certainly ruin the engine if you drive while it’s overheated.

Suggestion C: When All Else Fails (A Few Things to Toss in the Trunk).

If you’ve followed all the precautions described above but bad luck has caught up with you anyway, here’s Click and Clack’s Official Heap of Things to Bring on Your Summer Road Trip.

Item A: Bring some extra coolant, particularly if you are traveling through the boonies, where service stations are spaced farther apart. If you’re from the East and taking your first trip out West, consider yourself forewarned: there ain’t a gas station every 20 miles, pal.

Item B: Bring a quart or two of oil. See Item A.

Item C: Maps. Attention all Real Guys: Don’t let testosterone poisoning cloud your thinking. Bring maps. Heck, you can even figure out your route right on our site and print it out, with theMapquest mapping system.

Item D: While you’re packing, also toss in a roll of duct tape. Duct tape has a number of great uses, such as temporarily repairing a hole in a leaky hose, or slapping it over the mouth of your kid when he’s driving you completely wacko.

Item E: Do yourself a proactive favor–if you’re going to be driving through unpopulated terrain, throw out that Mickey Mouse spare tire in your trunk and bring a real spare tire with you. Would you trust one of those cheesy spares to get you across the desert of Nevada? We sure wouldn’t. Spring for the money and get a real spare. For those of you on a budget, a good option is to get a used tire at your local junkyard. Look for something that hasn’t been left to degrade out in the sun and that has a reasonable amount of tread left. Note: That little spare isn’t recommended for more than 50 miles of driving. So, if you expect to be more than 50 miles from civilization, this is especially important.

Items F, G, H and I: Toss in a screwdriver, a couple of flares, a pair of pliers, vise grips and maybe a coat hanger or two to hold up the muffler when it falls off.

Well, that should do it. Bon voyage! And one more thing: while you’re driving around this summer–be sure to stop and check out the Toilet Seat Museum in San Antonio, Texas. The kids will love it. Tell ‘em Ray sent you.

Buon avventura, guys,

Tom and Ray

http://cars.cartalk.com/content/features/Summer-Driving-Tips/other.html

Check out the entire cooling system: radiator, coolant, belts and hoses,cooling fans, heater core and water pump.

1A. THE RADIATOR

First, make sure that the radiator core is in good shape. In areas of the country where they salt the roads, the core of the radiator can literally “rot” away. Even though the radiator may not be leaking now, it will be leaking soon. That means bad overheating. And when your engine isn’t cooled properly, it can easily blow a head gasket, or crack or warp a cylinder head. In technical jargon, your engine is going to “melt.”

What is the radiator core, and how would you know if it’s rotten? The core is the little tubes through which the coolant flows so that it can get cooled by the air flowing past it.

But, it takes some experience to recognize a radiator that’s rotten, so we recommend that you ask your mechanic to check it out. He’ll look at it and touch it to see how hard it is to get it to crumble. Unfortunately, this is a destructive test–if it’s rotten it will fall apart. But, better it happens in the shop than on the highway, no?

Another common radiator problem is a plugged radiator core. If this happens, you’ll notice that your engine is running hot when you’re driving at sustained high speed or, as a strictly hypothetical example, while you’re climbing a hill on a hot summer day with your mother-in-law in the trunk.

A plugged radiator core can be the kiss of death for an engine. How do radiators get plugged? Simple. If you haven’t had your cooling system flushed since, say, Gerald Ford was vice president, it’s likely that many of the little cooling tubes within the radiator are clogged with rust. And those cooling channels are mucho importante. Remember–that’s how the radiator cools the coolant…by passing the stuff through those channels and blowing cool air across them. So, if your radiator is plugged, it will still work, but not as well. And you’ll be most likely to notice the problem when the car is under the greatest load (i.e., when you’re halfway up Pike’s Peak.)

The bottom line? If your car ran even a little hot last summer, have your mechanic find the cause of it right now. Before it’s too late. If there’s any question about the core, he’ll do a “flow test” to see if the right amount of fluid is passing through the tubes.

1B. BELTS AND HOSES

Visually check the hoses and belts related to the cooling system. Squeeze the hoses and look for small cracks in the rubber. Make sure the hoses are tight (grab the hose near the hose clamp and make sure it doesn’t rotate), and check to see that the belts have the proper amount of tension. To check the tension, push down on the belt. It should deflect about 1/2 inch. On some cars–mostly older ones–a belt turns the fan. On other cars, the cooling fan is electric. (See COOLING FAN below.)

1C. COOLANT AND THERMOSTAT

You should be using antifreeze in your radiator, even in the summer. Why? Because antifreeze contains corrosion inhibitors, and it actually has a higher boiling point than water. (Remember your high school chemistry? When you mix two chemicals together, you end up with a boiling point that’s higher than either one of them separately. Of course, we can’t remember any of the formulas. We were both distracted by Jackie Natella that semester.)

If you haven’t had your thermostat replaced in several years, we recommend to our customers that they get a new one when they’re having their cooling system flushed. A stuck thermostat is a common cause of engine overheating. Replacing the thermostat is cheap, it’s not that big a deal, and it could save you a meltdown somewhere between Boise and Laramie.

1D. WATER PUMP

Water pumps break–and when they do, they usually allow all the coolant to leak out. Luckily, a good mechanic can predict when the pump will die. (He does this by jiggling the pump to see how much “play” there is in the bearings. If it’s loosey goosey, replace it. Some pumps, by the way, are driven by the timing belt, and are difficult to check in this manner. If your car is in this category, have the water pump replaced when you replace the timing belt.)

1E. COOLING FAN(S)

Many modern cars have an electric cooling fan–and some have more than one. The fan is controlled by a thermostatic switch. That is, the fan comes on when the temperature of the coolant goes up. You can check the operation of the fan yourself. First, you have to find it–but that’s easy. If you drive around town for 15 or 20 minutes, the fan will kick in. So, open the hood, with the engine running (please, take off your ascot, necktie or Lorna Doone scarf before you do this), and listen for the cooling fan. If the fan isn’t running, it’s not working. Have it fixed–sometimes the fan has gone south, and other times the problem is the thermostatic switch.

1F. HEATER CORE

The heater core is part of the cooling system, because the coolant runs through it. If the heater core leaks, the coolant drains out and you’re in deep doodoo. Your mechanic will put a pressure tester on the radiator to find all the leaks–including this one.
http://cars.cartalk.com/content/features/Summer-Driving-Tips/cooling-system.html

Should I do this service when it’s recommended?

   

Changing your own oil requires ramps or a jack and jack stands, a box-end wrench and something to catch and contain the oil.

In general, yes. Changing your vehicle’s oil is one of the most important things you can do to avoid bringing large bags of money to your mechanic later on.

However, there’s a lot of controversy about exactly when engine oil gets old and how often it should be replaced with new oil. Because there are many factors at work — how you drive, the condition and age of the engine, the external environment you drive in, and stop-and-go versus highway driving — it’s an inexact science. Owner’s manual recommendations for oil and filter changes vary from 3,000 to 10,000 miles.

We recommend that you change your oil and filter every 5,000 miles. That’s our best estimate. It may be too soon for many people and too late for a few, but for the vast majority, 5,000-mile oil changes will help your engine last to a ripe, old age.

You may want to consider changing your oil more frequently if:

• You drive like a knucklehead: jackrabbit starts, heavy acceleration or high-speed driving
• You live where the climate is extremely hot or cold
• You often drive on dirt roads
• Your engine is old and burns oil
• You frequently carry heavy loads (several mothers-in-law or other cargo)

Why do I have to do this?

Oil undergoes thermal breakdown due to high operating temperature. When this occurs, the oil becomes less effective as a lubricant. And without a good lubricant (read: expensive), parts of the engine rub together and wear each other out.

   

You’ll need some type of oil-filter wrench; here are two sizes of socket-style cap wrenches — one fitted to an oil filter and the other to a 3/8-inch-drive breaker bar handle.

Oil also contains additives that have the ability to neutralize acids. Over time, these additives get used up and stop being effective.

Finally, oil can absorb water, dust and combustion byproducts and also hold them in suspension. Eventually, the oil gets saturated with this stuff and can’t absorb any more. Then that stuff remains in the engine and can cause corrosion.

What happens if I don’t do this?

Your engine won’t last as long as it could. Oil serves many crucial functions, and clean oil performs those functions better than dirty oil. Oil is relatively cheap, and changing your oil every 5,000 miles is a very cheap insurance policy against major repairs down the road.

Is there any maintenance required between intervals?

Yes, you need to check the oil level every few hundred miles. With your car parked on a level surface, remove the oil dipstick, clean it on your brother’s best shirt and then reinsert it. Remove it again, and check the oil level.

   

The dipstick shows the engine’s oil level; the MIN marking means the oil is at the minimum operating level and is one quart low.

Ideally, it should be right at the full mark. If it’s at or below the add mark, that means you’re a quart low and should add a quart of oil to the crankcase. If it’s in between the two marks, you can add part of a quart to bring it up to the full mark (the distance between add and full represents a quart, so use that to estimate how much of a quart you need). Be aware, however, that since oil flows slowly when it is cool, the dipstick may not immediately reflect any oil you just added. So estimate the amount of oil you need based on your first dipstick reading, and then check it again later that day or the next day to be sure you’re near the full mark.

A word of caution: Be careful not to overfill your car’s crankcase with oil. If you put in too much oil, the engine’s crankshaft can actually come in contact with the oil. And because the crankshaft is turning at several thousand revolutions per minute, it can quickly whip your oil into a froth — like the steamed milk that sits on the top of a cappuccino. Why is that bad? Well, the oil pump can’t pump froth very well, and as a result, it can’t get oil to the parts of the engine that need lubrication. The result … a hefty boat payment to your mechanic.

If you are low on oil, you can add any grade of engine motor oil you like — though we advise you to use the grade of oil recommended in your owner’s manual.

Can I Do This Myself?
It depends on where you rank on the Car Talk do-it-yourself scale:
	There are two kinds of screwdrivers?
	I’ve successfully hung pictures around the house.
	I’ve changed my own oil.
	I’ve fixed things on my car that involve removing more than five bolts.
	I’ve built a working nuclear reactor out of wood.

If you regularly run low on oil, be sure to report it to your mechanic. You may have a leak or may be burning oil — signs that you might be gearing up for a major boat payment to your mechanic.

Car Talk Tip: At some point, every engine starts to burn oil. Get in the habit of checking the oil from time to time, and you just might avoid having your engine melt down one day.

photographs by Joe Wiesenfelder, cars.com
Posted on 3/31/05

http://cars.cartalk.com/content/advice/oilchanges.html

 

Changing automatic transmission fluid is best left to a mechanic equipped with a transmission flusher, like this Wynn’s Transerve II+, which replaces the fluid more thoroughly than you could achieve with gravity alone.

A variety of fluids are used for different transmissions. Automatic transmissions use something called — shockingly — automatic transmission fluid. Manual transmissions use a variety of oils: regular motor oil, heavyweight hypoid gear oil or even automatic transmission fluid in some cases. Your owner’s manual will tell you what your transmission calls for.

Should I do this service when it’s recommended?

Yes, definitely, regardless of whether you have a manual or an automatic transmission.

Manual: Most manufacturers recommend that manual transmission fluid be changed every 30,000 to 60,000 miles. Under heavy-duty use, some manufacturers suggest changing transmission fluid every 15,000 miles.

Automatic: Service intervals for an automatic transmission vary from every 30,000 miles … to never. The typical service interval is 60,000 to 100,000 miles. Changing it more often does no harm.

Why do I have to do this?

Manual: In a manual transmission, the problem is not so much the fluid degradation, but rather fluid contamination. This contamination occurs over time as the synchronizers, bearings and gears in the transmission wear out. The resulting metal particles then float around in the lubricant. And we all know that oil with microscopic particles of metal in it does not lubricate as well as clean oil. So if these contaminants are not drained out, they will shorten the life of your transmission.

Automatic: Because more heat is generated in an automatic transmission, automatic transmission fluid actually degrades and breaks down with use.

In addition, like in a manual transmission, automatic transmission fluid will also become contaminated with worn bits of the transmission. If these contaminants are not drained out, they will shorten the life of your transmission.

What happens if I don’t do this?

If you don’t change the transmission fluid on schedule, you’ll be lubricating your transmission with metal shavings and other contaminants. This will shorten the transmission’s life. The result could be a hefty boat payment to your mechanic. In other words, changing your transmission fluid at the correct interval is a good investment.

Is there any maintenance required between intervals?

 

Automakers have gotten better in recent years about labeling or color-coding dipsticks. The ring on the right is red to match the automatic transmission fluid, the level of which this dipstick measures. The yellow ring is clearly marked “engine oil.”

Yes. It’s important to regularly check the transmission fluid level between service intervals. Letting your car run low on transmission fluid can cause the transmission to shift improperly — or not at all. It also can harm the internal parts of your transmission, which will not be properly lubricated. Unfortunately, you may not hear any noises or have other clues that your transmission is low on fluid, until it’s too late. So it’s important to get it checked.

Here’s how you can check your transmission fluid level:

Manual: Checking the transmission fluid in a manual transmission can be difficult. A few thoughtful manufacturers have included a dipstick, but that’s the exception rather than the rule. If you own a car with a manual transmission, we suggest that you ask your mechanic to check the fluid level when your car is up on the lift during an oil change. It takes just a minute.

Automatic: If you own a car with an automatic transmission, your car will have a dipstick for this purpose. Be careful not to make the common mistake of confusing the transmission dipstick with the crankcase dipstick.

Can I Do This Myself?
It depends on where you rank on the Car Talk do-it-yourself scale:
	There are two kinds of screwdrivers?
	I’ve successfully hung pictures around the house.
	I’ve changed my own oil.
	I’ve fixed things on my car that involve removing more than five bolts.
	I’ve built a working nuclear reactor out of wood.

For most cars, checking the automatic transmission fluid consists of pulling the transmission dipstick out while the engine is warmed up and running and with the transmission in park. We suggest that you check your owner’s manual, however, since some manufacturers may have a different procedure.

Of course, always check your fluid level if you notice a leak of any kind.

Car Talk Tip: Unlike engine oil, transmission oil doesn’t burn up. So if you’re low on transmission fluid, you almost certainly have a leak.

changing automatic fluid photo courtesy of Wynn Oil Company;
color-coded dipstick photo by Joe Wiesenfelder, cars.com

http://cars.cartalk.com/content/advice/transmissionfluid.html

During the inspection, your mechanic will look for signs of wear, such as cracks, shredding or excessive slack. He’ll also look for signs of oil leaks from the adjacent seals, which can damage the belt and considerably shorten its life.

Should I do this service when it’s recommended?

Yes.

Why do I have to do this?

Checking your timing belt for wear or looseness will let you know if the belt may likely break soon or if it may possibly jump a notch.

What happens if I don’t do this?

If you don’t periodically inspect your timing belt, it might break at an inopportune moment.

Many modern cars have interference engines, or motor wreckers, as we in the trade refer to them. If a timing belt breaks or jumps a notch in an interference engine, the valves may open at the wrong time and then be struck by the pistons. The result will be many hundreds of dollars in damage to your engine. Be sure to ask your service manager if your vehicle has an interference engine. If you don’t have an interference engine, a broken timing belt will leave you stranded — which is inconvenient — but won’t do any permanent damage.

Is there any maintenance required between intervals?

If you hear a slapping sound coming from your engine, it could be the result of a loose timing belt, which is hitting the plastic timing belt cover. To determine if your timing belt is loose, ask your mechanic to check its tension.

All cars have ways to adjust the timing belt tension. Some cars have self-adjusting mechanisms, while others need to be adjusted manually.

Can I Do This Myself?
It depends on where you rank on the Car Talk do-it-yourself scale:
	There are two kinds of screwdrivers?
	I’ve successfully hung pictures around the house.
	I’ve changed my own oil.
	I’ve fixed things on my car that involve removing more than five bolts.
	I’ve built a working nuclear reactor out of wood.

Car Talk Tip: If you have an interference engine, don’t try to squeeze every last mile out of your timing belt. Change it at the recommended interval. If your manufacturer recommends that you replace the timing belt at 60,000 miles, don’t forget that this also means replacements at 120,000 miles, 180,000 miles and so on.

If you don’t have an interference engine but want to go for the timing belt mileage record, by all means go for it. The worst that can happen is your timing belt will break, your car will stop running and you’ll be stranded, but your engine will not be permanently damaged.

Should I do this service when it’s recommended?

Yes.

Why do I have to do this?

 

A special gauge/tool is used to measure the spark plug gap and, if necessary, to bend the electrode to achieve the correct specification.

At the sparking end of the spark plug is a built-in gap between two or more little pieces of metal, called electrodes. When the plug fires, one or more sparks jump that gap and a tiny bit of the metal is burned off. This happens hundreds of times every minute. Over time, the gap between the metal tips gets too big.

Also, your spark plugs can get fouled, but that would indicate that you have a problem.

What happens if I don’t do this?

Your engine will start to misfire and run poorly, performance will suffer, efficiency will decrease and emissions will dramatically increase. Your car may also be difficult to start.

Can I Do This Myself?
It depends on where you rank on the Car Talk do-it-yourself scale:
	There are two kinds of screwdrivers?
	I’ve successfully hung pictures around the house.
	I’ve changed my own oil.
	I’ve fixed things on my car that involve removing more than five bolts.
	I’ve built a working nuclear reactor out of wood.
Changing spark plugs is relatively easy, but it requires specialized tools and some instruction your first time from a mechanic or friend.

Is there any maintenance required between intervals?

We recommend removing the old spark plugs and reinstalling new ones at least every 30,000 miles.

Many manufacturers have long-life, 60,000- or 90,000-mile spark plugs. If you don’t remove these spark plugs until they’re due to be changed, you might find it extremely difficult or even impossible to remove them when the time comes. You’ll also want to examine the plugs if your car is running poorly. A blackened plug, for example, can tell you that the engine is running too rich.

photograph by Joe Wiesenfelder, cars.com
Posted on 3/31/05

Modern air filters are cylindrical or rectangular like this one from a Ford Explorer.

The air filter stops airborne contaminants from getting sucked into your car’s engine. It’s a paper filter that stops debris such as dust, leaves and wayward pelicans before they get inside the engine and do damage.

Should I do this service when it’s recommended?

Yes.

Why do I have to do this?

Because, eventually, your air filter will get plugged up.

What happens if I don’t do this?

If your air filter gets too dirty or clogged, your engine won’t be able to suck enough air into the combustion chambers. The engine will then run rich (i.e., too much gas and not enough air). When this happens, your car will lose power and run roughly. Your Check Engine light also may come on.

If you really neglect the air filter for a long time, your car may stop running altogether. While permanent damage is unlikely, it is possible. If an air filter were sufficiently dirty and damaged, it could allow harmful, abrasive contaminants into the combustion chamber.

Can I Do This Myself?
It depends on where you rank on the Car Talk do-it-yourself scale:
	There are two kinds of screwdrivers?
	I’ve successfully hung pictures around the house.
	I’ve changed my own oil.
	I’ve fixed things on my car that involve removing more than five bolts.
	I’ve built a working nuclear reactor out of wood.

Is there any maintenance required between intervals?

If you operate your car under severe duty, such as frequent driving on dirt roads or a lot of stop-and-go driving around town, then you should halve the recommended service intervals for the inspection and replacement of the air filter.

Car Talk Tip: Inspecting and replacing your air filter is an easy task. Almost anyone can do it … with the possible exception of Jerry Springer. By purchasing the filter directly from an auto parts store, you can sometimes save $10 or more, in addition to the labor costs.

photograph by Joe Wiesenfelder, cars.com
Posted on 3/31/05

    

The disc brake caliper (1) squeezes brake pads (2) against either side of the rotor (3). The rotor is part of the hub (4), to which the wheel attaches.

There are two kinds of brake systems: disc brakes and drum brakes. Disc brakes are the most common system in use today, and they’re very much like the hand brakes on a bicycle. When you step on your car’s brake pedal, the brake pads squeeze a spinning disc rotor that’s attached to the wheel. The resulting friction, when applied to each of the wheels, slows the car.

The second type, drum brakes, involve brake shoes that push out against a spinning brake drum, which is attached to the wheel. This friction slows the car.

Both systems work by creating friction, so brake parts are expected to wear out. The questions then are, how worn out are they? And are they worn out enough that they need to be replaced?

That’s what this service is all about — checking these components for wear and other potential problems.

Should I do this service when it’s recommended?

Absolutely.

Why do I have to do this?

In short, you do this service so you don’t crash into a cabbage truck.

What happens if I don’t do this?

If you neglect your brake pads and shoes, your brakes will ultimately fail. Even before that happens, however, you can cause damage to other, more expensive brake parts, such as rotors, drums and calipers. In other words: a stitch in time … saves you from helping your mechanic with a boat payment later on.

Can I Do This Myself?
It depends on where you rank on the Car Talk do-it-yourself scale:
	There are two kinds of screwdrivers?
	I’ve successfully hung pictures around the house.
	I’ve changed my own oil.
	I’ve fixed things on my car that involve removing more than five bolts.
	I’ve built a working nuclear reactor out of wood.

Is there any maintenance required between intervals?

If you notice any of the following signs and symptoms when you brake …

• flashing brake warning light
• squealing, chirping or grinding noises
• pulsations in the brake pedal
• shaky steering wheel
• increased stopping distance
• car pulls to one side when you stop

… your brakes may require servicing. Make an appointment with your mechanic right away.

Car Talk Tip: Most cars have disc brakes in the front and back. A few economy vehicles and many light trucks have disc brakes in the front and drum brakes on the rear wheels.

photograph by Joe Wiesenfelder, cars.com
Posted on 3/31/05

http://cars.cartalk.com/content/advice/brakes.html

• Check your tires regularly to be sure there are no visible signs of wear or damage.

 

• Be sure your tires are properly inflated. Check your tire pressure often with a gauge, especially on long trips. Measure when the tires are cold, before you drive on them. You can find the recommended inflation pressure in your owner’s manual, on a label frequently found in the glove box, near the door latch on the driver’s side, or other locations on your vehicle. The recommended inflation pressure is not to be confused with the maximum inflation pressure shown on the side of the tire. At the recommended inflation pressure, tires will last longer and be less likely to fail, and the car will use less fuel. Serious injury can result from tire failure because of under inflation or overloading.

 

• Never overload your vehicle. Your car and tires are designed to operate safely only up to their load limits. These limits are shown in your owner’s manual and on the certification plate on the edge of the driver’s door.

 

• Make sure there is enough tread on the tire to operate safely, and make sure the tires are wearing normally. All grooves should be visible and deep enough to at least touch the top of Lincoln’s head on a penny inserted head first in the tread. Low tread or bald tires are unsafe and need to be replaced.

 

• If some spots on the tire seem to be wearing faster than others, see your service station or mechanic. You could have misaligned wheels, worn shock absorbers, or other potential problems. Make sure your tires are aligned and balanced properly.

 

• Don’t drive at a high rate of speed for a long time, particularly in hot weather. Obey posted speed limits. Lower speeds also mean better gas mileage.

Sources: U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, National Weather Service, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, Federal Citizen Information Center, Washington State SAFE KIDS Coalition

If your car overheats — or if you are doing regular maintenance at home — never remove the radiator cap until the engine has thoroughly cooled! A professional should check the tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps, and hoses. 

Sources: U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, National Weather Service, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, Federal Citizen Information Center, Washington State SAFE KIDS Coalition